Where the World Meets the Sky: Trekking the Naxi, Yi & Mosuo Extended (004_6)
20 days*, Trek [Grade 2]

*For a 14-day version of this trail go to Where the World Meets the Sky.

D1 Kunming   Hotel
D2 Yuhu village   Flight, Guesthouse
D3 Wenhai village   Trek (1+), Homestay
D4 Xuehua village   Trek (1+), Homestay
D5 Shanghai village   Trek (1+), Homestay
D6 Daju   Trek (1+), Guesthouse
D7-8 Trek to Baoshan Trek (1+), Homestay
D9 Baoshan Stone village   Trek (1+), GH
D10-16 Trek to Lugu   Trek (2), Homestay
D17 Arrive Lugu Lake  Trek (1+), GH
D18 Lugu Lake   Guesthouse
D19 Lijiang or Yuhu  4WD/Bus, Hotel or GH
D20 Kunming   Flight, Hotel

D1 Kunming
Arguably the most open and relaxed of China's provincial capitals, befitting to a province that straddles so many cultures and civilisations. Dubbed the 'City of Spring' due to its yearlong great climate, it's long been a summer getaway destination for the savvier of China's political and economic elite. Nowadays, it only has traces of the old city and its semi-colonial French influences, but the reconstruction has gone well and it retains much of the atmosphere (if not the actual buildings!) of earlier times.

Pick-up from the airport followed by an initial orientation. For those arriving early, whereby Kunming isn’t chock-a-block with traditional ‘sights’, it’s a relaxed and pleasant city to wander around, visit the Bird & Flower market, sip tea by the lake, imbibe coffee at the pre-revolution era coffee house, etc. Accommodation is by Green Lake in the northwest of the city, a good place to use as a base for a rewarding stroll or two and a chance to kick the jet lag.
Hotel

D2 Yuhu village
An early flight to Lijiang. The night is spent at Yuhu, a small village nestled on the lower slopes of Jade Dragon Mountain. Amongst other things this was the home of Joseph Rock - who was in parts an explorer, a plant collector, a scholar of Naxi language, and a bit of a master of fakery - who roamed SW China in the 20s, 30s and 40s. A quiet village and a delightful little guesthouse provide a great jumping off point for the beginning of the trek. Guided afternoon walk up the slopes of the hovering mountain is an option, after which it’s a home-cooked meal, and an evening of star gazing from the courtyard, before turning into clean, cosy rooms at this family-run guesthouse.
Flight, Guesthouse

D3 Wenhai village
Today it’s a 5-hour trek to Wenhai, another Naxi village several hundred metres up on the slopes of Jade Dragon. The site of a half-hearted attempt to impose eco-tourism, Wenhai has a slightly schizophrenic character - sometimes a quiet remote village struggling with the after effects of the ‘98 logging ban, sometimes playing host to large groups of ‘eco-tourists’ with cameras and heels. Either way the views of the snow peak to and from Wenhai are beautiful and the trek, though up, relatively undemanding. A pleasant first day.
Trek (1+), Homestay

D4 Xuehua village
A short day’s trekking along the slopes to Xuehua, a much poorer Yi village and a chance to relax for the afternoon and check out a little local life. Interestingly Xuehua is also the home of one of the few 'bimo' of the area, an Yi shaman-like figure steeped in a ritualistic history infinitely longer and more complex than its newcomer counterpart amongst the Naxi - the ‘Dongba priest’. Whether or not you’ll get the chance to meet him is moot, but it does give some indication as to the depth of tradition in this village.
Trek (1+), Homestay

D5 Shanghai village
Another relaxed day’s trekking under the snow peak to Shanghai, a relatively affluent Naxi village and the last stop before heading east away from Jade Dragon. By now those muscles should be flowing!
Trek (1+), Homestay

D6 Daju
The day starts off with a 2-hour trek to the road and a pick-up (by mini-bus or 4WD) for the drive to and along Tiger Leaping Gorge, stopping for lunch in the middle. TLG, while by no means as some claim the deepest gorge in the world, is still a sight worth beholding. If there’s time it’s worth the walk down to the riverside to offer a little awe to the rapids that have killed more than 10 rafters mad enough to challenge them. The day ends with a ferry crossing to Daju, a guesthouse and the last shower for a while to come!
Trek (1+), Guesthouse

D7-8 Daju to Baoshan trek
Catching views of Haba and Jade Dragon snow mountains, this stretch of the route cuts a path through pristine heavily forested country dotted with farmhouses and pastures, mostly Naxi country. A fairly gentle 3 days of trekking to Baoshan Stone village.
Trek (1+), Homestay

D9 Baoshan Stone village
Baoshan is an old and unique village (dating back to Yuan Dynasty), built atop a huge rock outcrop, set in the 2nd (Great) Bend of the Yangtze. Locals claim this is the heartland of true Naxi culture (but then, who doesn’t!) and the village is certainly one of a kind in SW China and who knows, maybe beyond! Steep streets and homes built into the rock, flowing fields of terraced rice paddies and the roar of the Yangtze, make for fascinating late afternoon strolls, and while last year they did run a road all the way through to here, locals are still happy with the novelty of visitors.
Trek (1+), Guesthouse

D10-16 Baoshan to Lugu Lake trek
Staying in villages and farmhouses along the way, the strength of Aku in guiding this trip, aside from his close knowledge of the area (he comes from Ninglang county, towards Lugu) is that the route is extremely flexible, thus allowing for him to be able to respond to changes in needs of his wards as well as avoiding too much repetition over the same path, to stop the local’s familiarity with visitors becoming something more akin to a commercial relationship! The landscape is both remote and beautiful, but not too taxing, the populace changing from largely Naxi to the much less known (although vastly more populous) Yi through to the matriarchal Mosuo of Lugu Lake. Accommodation inevitably is basic, and food simple, but if it’s close contact with NW Yunnan’s minority cultures you crave, this is the way to go.
Trek (2), Homestay

D17 Arrive Lugu Lake
Serene, blue, clear and with an almost SE Asian feel, Lugu Lake, despite being the undisputed home of the Mosuo minority - famous for its matriarchal structure and ‘walking marriages’ - has also been the home of Naxi, Yi, Pumi and Tibetan peoples over the centuries. Leave the more touristed southern (Yunnan) side for the more tranquil northern (Sichuan) side.
Trek (1+), Guesthouse

D18 Lugu Lake
“Where the world meets the sky” - the highest natural lake in China, it’s an excellent setting in which to relax for a day, potter around the lake, maybe hire a canoe (no motor boats allowed) and explore the islands. Or… if you like just put your feet up, grab a book and a beer and give your blisters a break…
Guesthouse

D13 Lijiang or Yuhu
A 5-hour drive back to Lijiang and all its comforts. The town, which will seem rather Disneyland-esque at this point, remains one of the not-to-be-missed gems of SW China - an intriguing and beautiful old town - ancient canal system, thriving central market, traditional architecture, with abundant cafes in the centre. For a quieter option, tonight can also stay in Yuhu, small village located a short drive north of Lijiang. Nestled on the lower slopes of Jade Dragon Mountain, amongst other things this was the home of Joseph Rock - who was in parts an explorer, a plant collector, and a scholar of Naxi language, who roamed SW China in the 20s, 30s and 40s. At Yuhu there is a family-run guesthouse with clean cosy rooms and superb home-cooked meals.
4WD or bus, Hotel or Guesthouse

D20 Kunming
A little last minute shopping before an afternoon flight to Kunming, and a final meal together, which may just hold its own surprise!
Flight, Hotel

 

A 6-day pre-extension that makes for an extensive 20-day trip, including 14 days of trekking that take in a broad sweep of the Naxi, Yi and Mosuo minorities of NW Yunnan, with the intention of getting in up close to the local cultures. This trek is very much the baby of Aku, an Yi minority guide and one of 5 or 6 people who form the core here at Haiwei Trails. It starts with 3½ days' trekking around Jade Dragon Mountain, staying at Naxi and Yi villages along the way, just to get everyone in condition! After a half-day’s drive along Tiger Leaping Gorge, the trek heads north-west for 10 days via Haba Mountain and Baoshan Stone village (on the Second ‘Great’ Bend of the Yangtze) for high altitude Lugu Lake. Although most of the trek covers ground of 2000m+, the focus is on the villages and peoples of the area. The landscapes (at least in the second half), though often remote, tend to be gentler than the Himalayan peaks to the north, though early spring and late autumn see snow. The trekking, therefore, though often demanding, is never extreme, with the time allowing for a steady and relaxing pace. Also in line with this focus, accommodation is homestays in the farmhouses and villages you pass through, rather than camping. For the most part these are genuine homestays rather the semi-commercial versions popping up in more trampled regions. Village life up close! The final destination of Lugu Lake also serves as a great place to rest weary bones, maybe take a swim and generally reflect on the rigours of the previous weeks.

Photos & Text © 2003-2008 Haiwei Trails